Pomegranate-based Hydroquinone-free skin toning and brightening cream

Pomegranate is the smart skin brightenerHydroquinone-based lightening products still have a very strong presence in the skin care industry throughout Africa. To meet the growing demand for more hydroquinone-free formulations in even tone and brightening skin creams, Savannah Fine Chemicals is marketing Luminia GranatumPRCF. This innovative and effective active ingredient developed by Vytrus Biotech, Savannah’s principal based in Barcelona, is said to enhance radiance and skin glow.

A novel approach

As an expert developer of plant cell cultures, Vytrus Biotech launched a new range of products based on the technology of plant stem cells. Deemed ‘plasma rich in cell factors’ (or PRCF), the company’s plant cell biofactories (PCB) technology has been harnessed to enrich cell cultures in several fractions of active molecules in sync, targeting the molecular synergy phenomenon.

PRCF is Vytrus Biotech’s Innovative approach to the phenomenon and proprietary concept of molecular synergy – a new way to take advantage of the real power of plants.

In an interview with Cosmetics Design Europe, the CEO and co-founder of Vytrus Biotech, Oscar Expósito discusses how his company refers to stem cells as ‘totipotent cells’. This terminology ‘distances the technology from the idea of live human stem cells, which are never used by the cosmetics industry’.

The science behind the use of totipotent cells involves ‘breaking a plant stem cell so that it is dead, and taking the content of the cell for use as an ingredient’.

Rich in antioxidants

Luminia GranatumPRCF is a powder derived from the cultured plant stem cells of the seeds of the Pomegranate (Punica granatum). This is obtained using PCB technology.

This skin lightening ingredient is enriched in characteristic hydroxybenzoic acids and is standardised in gallotannins (gallic acid) and ellagitannins (ellagic acid).

The PCB technology provides the perfect vehicle to stimulate the cell cultures of Luminia GranatumPRCF to obtain the highest production of gallotannins and ellagitannins, which are the major antioxidants in the pomegranate.

Thanks to Vytrus Biotech’s expertise in the bio-engineering of stem cell cultures, the company is able to stimulate stress signalling pathways to enhance the production of these key antioxidant and anti-inflammatory acids.

Therefore, Luminia GranatumPRCF includes a unique skin friendly synergistic combination, resulting in an innovative approach to whitening and lightening.

In vivo efficacy

To establish the efficacy of Luminia GranatumPRCF in evening skin’s tone, Vytrus Biotech conducted various tests on a panel of 30 Caucasian volunteers aged between 40 70 years old. The results showed a 54 percent increase in the intense whitening effect on dark spots than in the skin hue, leaving skin evener and more uniform (see Table 1).

Table 1_-_Luminia_Granatum

Table 1: Evening of skin tone results using one percent Luminia GranatumPRCF

A variety of applications

Luminia GranatumPRCF is suitable for use in brightening and lightening creams. It can also be used in the prevention and treatment of photo-induced pigmentation, skin cleansers claiming to enhance ‘radiance’ and ‘glow’, eye contour brightening treatments, even tone products, spot fading treatments, hand and décolletage products, and anti-ageing serums.

Its highly effective skin lightening strategy is based on a three pronged approach, which includes lightening, evening skin tone and texture, while enhancing radiance and glow. The suggested usage level for this ingredient is 0.3 to one percent in a formulation. Luminia GranatumPRCF is COSMOS approved and Ecocert certified.

Skin brightener phases

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