In-cosmetics Global announces 2017 award winners

Caroline Neville, president of CEW UKThe second day of in-cosmetics Global ended in style, with awards presented to suppliers excelling in innovation, green and sensory product development. New to this year, the personal care industry also found out who had scooped the Make-up Bar Award and the first Johnson & Johnson Innovation Flash Cosmetics Pitch.

In total, around 100 entries were received from suppliers across the globe, with businesses hoping their exciting developments would be the talk of the event. An audience of more than 400 professionals gathered at the ceremony, where Caroline Neville, president of CEW UK, presented this year’s awards.

‘I have really enjoyed my visit to in-cosmetics Global and am glad that the show is back in London after a 15-year break. Raw material innovations are the basis of creativity in the market place for finished products. Without the technical savoire-faire, many of the products that delight consumers today would not exist,’ Neville commented.

Best ingredients revealed

Fending off a stellar list of suppliers, which have launched new products in the last six months, Laboratoires Expanscience and Ashland took home the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Gold Awards in the active and functional ingredient categories respectively.

The winners were selected by an esteemed judging panel, including representatives of Neal’s Yard Remedies, GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare and L’Oréal Research and Innovation. Laboratoires Expanscience impressed the judges with Passioline, while Ashland was commended for FiberHance BM Solution.

Belinda Carli, director at The Institute of Personal Care Science and the head judge of the awards, said: ‘The quality of entries this year has been fantastic and very difficult to choose a winner. The breadth of entries demonstrated just how creative the industry has become. The in-cosmetics Global event is a perfect platform to highlight the ingredients that will help inspire a new generation of cosmetics and this competition shows the future is exciting.’

Passioline is a concentrate, rich in unsaponifiables derived from the co-valorisation of the Peruvian fruit juice industry. When making maracuja fruit juice, the seeds are a by-product while the pulp is used to obtain juice. Laboratoires Expanscience dries and presses the seeds to obtain virgin oil of maracuja. It has shown remarkable efficacy in tissue repair and cell regeneration, and it has anti-inflammatory properties that help it smooth any kind of skin imperfections.

FiberHance BM Solution is a new, innovative patented ingredient that strengthens and repairs internal hair fibres by creating additional bonds within the hair structure. It is a small, low molecular weight molecule based on a unique natural glucoside chemistry that allows penetration deep into the hair fibre up to the cortex. Hydrogen and ionic bonding of the keratin structure restores hair fibre strength back to levels of virgin hair. It is supplied as a 50 percent active solution.

Gattefossé’s Gatuline Link ‘n Lift and Lipotec’s Reproage peptide (Savannah Fine Chemicals) won the Silver and Bronze awards respectively for their active ingredients. Meanwhile, in the functional category, Hallstar’s Micah (Millchem) and Inter Actifs – Aceto Corporation’s Helicoidal Emulsion Technology both received Silver awards. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics took the Bronze prize for Siligel.

Sensory achievements

Meanwhile, the exhibitors who had showcased their ingredients and materials in the in-cosmetics Global Sensory Bar were eager to hear who had won this year’s Sensory Award.

Introduced to celebrate the most innovative developments in sensory and texture, in-cosmetics Global presented Gold, Silver and Bronze awards, with Biesterfeld scooping the top prize for Body & Seoul. This is an innovative formulation kit containing seven products, such as a cleansing oil and overnight lip mask, that have been influenced by Asian trends.

Chemyunion (Chemgrit Cosmetics) took the Silver prize for Emulfeel, while Evonik won Bronze.

Making a difference ecologically

In the increasingly popular Green Ingredient category, which is run in partnership with Ecovia Intelligente, Naturex scooped the Gold award for its unique Eliorelys ingredient.

The awards saw six products shortlisted by a panel of industry experts – including L’Oreal, Acheson & Acheson, Ecovia Intelligence and APIVITA – with Biolie presented with the Bronze prize for Greentense. Silver went to Kahai SAS for its new Cacay Oil product.

Naturex’s Eliorelys is a new active derived from cherry blossoms using a green technology process. The cherry blossoms are processed within the region where they are harvested using a biomimetic extraction solvent process.

Make-up gets its time to shine

The new Make-up Bar – which attracted great interest during the show – also coincided with an award for the most innovative developments in colour cosmetics and makeup. Judged by a panel of colour experts, Ronald Britton was enthralled to be named the inaugural winner for its cosmetics Bio-glitter.

Most commercially available glitters are based on PET film and have minimal biodegradability. However, Bio-glitter is based on a biodegradable film that is certified compostable. The biodegradable element is derived from sustainable sources, does not contain genetically modified materials, or materials obtained from genetically modified organisms. It also offers the same precision cut and highly reflective properties as a conventional PET glitter.

Lubrizol’s Avalure Flex-6 Polymer was presented with the Bronze award, while Nikkol Group Nikko Chemicals took home the Silver prize for its Iro-Odori jelly eye shadow.

Flash cosmetics pitch

Earlier in the day, 11 international start-ups took part in the very first Johnson & Johnson Innovation Flash Cosmetics Pitch. Taking place on the show floor, representatives from shortlisted businesses pitched innovations in six categories – anti-ageing, devices, digital beauty, the microbiome, naturals and personalisation – to the company’s panel of R&D and marketing experts.

With visitors to in-cosmetics Global’s watching the pitches live, there was great anticipation about who would win, taking home a €5 000 award. The winner also gains access to Johnson & Johnson Innovation’s leading R&D team.

After much deliberation, Nuritas, a digital biotech company from Ireland, was announced the winner, impressing the judges with its discovery of peptides from natural plant sources using artificial intelligence and DNA analysis. 

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