In-cosmetics ingredients webinars showcase what’s new on the market

Following the success of in-cosmetics Global’s first virtual conference that took place in April, show organisers hosted a series of free-to-attend webinars centred on the industry’s hottest new ingredients. More than 1 200 professionals from the cosmetics and personal care industry attended the 30-minute web-based demos, which took place over two days from 27 to 28 May.

Inspired by the incredibly popular Innovation Zone at the physical in-cosmetics Global exhibition, the first ‘ingredients in action: live demo’ web-based event saw 14 leading suppliers take part in presentation and Q&A sessions to showcase their latest ingredients. The full series is now available on-demand; please click here to access the webinar content.

A photo of the physical Innovation Zone from a previous in-cosmetics Global exhibition
The Innovation Zone, an annual highlight at in-cosmetics Global, inspired organisers to launch the first ‘ingredients in action’ web-based event

Botanicals, naturals, biotech & the microbiome on day one

Margaux Caron, global beauty analyst at Mintel, kicked off day one of the virtual event with an exploration of the trends driven by the new power of nature. Caron detailed the hottest ingredients and finished products centred on:

1. healthy nature

2. protective nature

3. sustainable nature.

She also revealed that vegan claims in new beauty and personal care launches have grown worldwide by 44% year on year. Further to this, Caron outlined the opportunities to combine nature and science for more sustainable ingredient sourcing, while delivering nutrients that mirror the natural food source. With live interaction, attendees validated this trend with 72% confirming they are using ingredients from the health category in new formulations, and a further 69% revealing plans to use nature-identical ingredients in their product formulations.

Following this session, Dr Fred Zülli and Dr Franziska Wandrey of Mibelle Group came together to educate attendees on the company’s Alpine Rose Active, designed to combat senescent or ‘zombie cells’. This purified extract of organic alpine rose leaves rejuvenates the skin and reduces the number of senescent fibroblasts – without damaging any healthy cells. It is proven to reduce senescent cells by 64%. Tests demonstrate it also increases skin’s elasticity by 16.1% and reduces redness by 8.4% after just 14 days. Carst & Walker is the official distributor of Mibelle Group in South Africa. Jordi Ayats, marketing manager at Algaktiv revealed the new Algaktiv BodySKN. Using upcycled waste cell wall polysaccharides from Arctic freshwater microalgae, Algaktiv BodySKN features a blend of actives that deliver holistic body care for firming, remodelling, and rebalancing stressed skin. Helping to restore normal skin homeostasis, it is also proven to improve skin elasticity, restore skin firmness, alleviate dry skin and itching and moisturises the skin.

Mathias Fleury, global catering manager: biotech active at Givaudan, provided participants with insight into the latest pillar of the company’s biotech expertise: Green biotech. He revealed two new ingredient launches: K-phyto [SC] Camellia and K-phyto [PP] GHK. The former is a powerful active obtained from the culture of Camellia phytoplacenta cells. It is ideal for dry and sensitive scalp applications as it decreases dead cells on the scalp, improves moisturisation and has soothing benefits. The latter, K-phyto [PP] GHK is ideal for use in facial toners, skin care for acne-prone skin and mattifying serums. Thanks to phytopeptide technology, it preserves antioxidant and anti-ageing activities, reducing facial sebum production in just two weeks. The Care Co. represents Givaudan in South Africa as its distributor and reseller of active ingredients.

Òscar Expósito CEO, CSO and co-founder of Vytrus Biotech revealed a new prebiotic biological deodorant treatment, Deobiome NoniPRCF, developed in line with the clean beauty trend. Please contact Savannah Fine Chemicals, the official South African distributor, for more information on this and other cosmetic technologies from Vytrus Biotech.

Dr Florian Genrich, senior global product manager: skin protection at Symrise, discussed Crinipan PMC green – a new hair and scalp care ingredient providing a novel and sustainable way to control dandruff.

Ending off day one’s proceedings, Amparo García, sales technician at ADP Cosmetics, delivered a session on beauty from the inside out.

Skin health, hair and scalp care, and vegan collagen on day two

Elise Romain, technical service manager at Jungbunzlauer, showcased the company’s clean-label hair-styling curl balm with Erylite. This formulation is free from polyquats and silicones and features a reduced list of ingredients. The proven properties of Erylite, a fermentation-based polyol, include moisturising and nourishing, controlling and reducing unwanted frizz, and improving hair’s manageability. Jungbunzlauer is represented throughout South Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals.

Maria Lopez, marketing and business developer at Antalgenics, discussed the different types of neurocosmetic products and introduced two new developments. The first, Calmapsin, is a novel capsaicinoid designed to address itchy scalps. It has a calming effect on the skin with in vitro and in vivo tests proving its ability to reduce the activity of sensory neurons. The other new development, Capsisilence, addresses a sensitive scalp. Similar to Calmapsin, it reduces the activity of sensory neurons giving a calming effect and reduces inflammation by decreasing the release of inflammatory molecules from mast cells.

Dr Angela Roca, R&D project manager at Provital, discussed a new active ingredient developed specifically for women over 60. Wonderage, derived from the monk fruit, is inspired by Chinese monks’ secret to the longevity and originates from the company’s mission to express individual beauty by creating positive feelings. Dr Roca discussed how Provital conducted the first scientific neurostudy using AI to measure the emotional impact of an active ingredient. Results showed that Wonderage has a positive impact on emotional wellbeing with 67% of the volunteers confirming that It contributed to their increased levels of excitement. Savannah Fine Chemicals is the approved distributor of Provital in South Africa.

Lucyanna Barbosa Barros, co-founder and CEO at Bicosome, revealed the latest Bicoalgae lines – Bicoalgae XT and Bicoalgae ω3 – which tackle the impact of modern stresses on skin health. Highlighting skin inflammaging, she showed how Bicosome technology increases the efficacy of the microalgae extracts in the stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis. Using double encapsulation to protect the microalgae bioactives, it allows them to gently penetrate the skin and deliver the actives where needed. This in turn helps to increase the skin’s biological processes. The two new lines offer different benefits. Bicoalgae XT helps to decelerate the ageing process, while Bicoalgae ω3 helps resolve skin inflammaging.

Feifei Lin, global business development manager at Elkem Silicones, addressed these three challenges often faced by formulators:

1. looking for product differentiation in a crowded marketplace

2. fulfilling consumer desire for a perceivable youthful look and feel

3. delivering performance with natural ingredients.

Presenting Elkem’s Puresil silicone elastomer gel series, she discussed how applying a silicone elastomer gel to the skin acts as a sensory enhancer, giving a silky, smooth, powdery and cushiony feel. It also gives a matte finish thanks to the instant wrinkle-blurring effect. Puresil is five to 10 times smaller in particle size compared to other elastomer gels, which is key to its exceptional performance.

Other highlights on the second day of the virtual event included:

· Geoffrey Stijfs, technical business developer from Sappi, who showcased Valida, a nanocellulose, bio-based stabiliser that lends an enhanced sensory experience to skin care products and cosmetics formulations

· Serene Yuan, global business development manager, personal care at Jiangsu JLand Biotech, who spoke about Biollagen – a type of yeast-fermented, 100% vegan collagen

· Dr Jun Wu, chief chemist at Sino Lion USA, who substantiated why glutamate and alaninate – two amino acid-based surfactants – are “the best alternatives to sulphate and the ultimate solution to the dioxane issue present in SLES”.

This presentation was highly topical with the New York State having just passed the Dioxane Prohibition Bill. Keep an eye on the in-cosmetics Global website for updates and more information on future web-based events that will be hosted by the exhibition organiser.