Solabia merges nature with technology at in-cosmetics

A stock image of a natural skin care product Sustainable development is a core value of the Solabia Group; it drives the company’s R&D innovation as well as its industrial action plan. Decreasing water consumption, encouraging the use of recycled raw materials, limiting waste generation and developing active ingredients by integrating upstream environmental criteria are some of the key actions reported within Solabia’s CSR policy.

To address this objective, Solabia launched and marketed the following active ingredients at in-cosmetics Global:

These are ingredients are all available in South Africa from Vantage Specialty Chemicals.

Solagreen Superfluids Technology

Specialising in conventional plant extraction using mainly natural solvents, Solabia is moving toward an eco-concept to enhance its green engineering excellence. As a result, the company has developed unique industrial bifunctional equipment and related extraction processes.

The Solagreen Superfluids Technology is based on the complementary extraction properties of two superfluids – subcritical water and supercritical CO2 – used separately or combined using a two-steps process. This high performance eco-extraction aims to enhance the exploration of plant phytochemistry by focusing on molecule polarity (from polar, weakly polar to non-polar ones) while sublimating the best that nature has to offer. This global technology and its two-in-one equipment allow for the screening and optimisation of an extraction, be it of specific molecules and molecular families, for skin and hair applications.

The technology provides these environmental and manufacturing benefits:

BlueShield anti-pollution blue light protector

We are living in an ultra-connected world. Digital devices emit an insidious blue light that generates free radicals and is responsible for skin’s oxidative stress and accelerating ageing with hyperpigmentation.

BlueShield is an eco-friendly botanical active ingredient obtained from cold pressing sustainably harvested French red bell peppers (Capsicum annuum) and stabilised using vegetable glycerine and xanthan gum. In addition to its strong absorption spectrum of the blue light (400 to 510nm), BlueShield protects skin against the harmful effects of screen light by reducing the stress to opsin photoreceptor, protecting the cell DNA from oxidation (decrease in 8-OHdG/ 8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine release), and preventing collagen degradation (inhibition of MMP-1 release).

The protective mechanisms of BlueShield result from its richness in Capsanthine and esters, which are molecules overproduced during the full maturity of red bell peppers. So, the active ingredient allows the formulator to optimise skin protection against blue light aggressors while helping preserve the circadian rhythm system.

Neuro-soothing Fucogel

Developed more than 20 years ago to meet the cosmetics industry’s need for film-forming polysaccharides with moisturising and sensory properties, Fucogel has enjoyed exponential international growth. It is a signature ingredient of Solabia’s and the unavoidable neuro-sensory active ingredient for any cosmetics formulation, considering its multifunctional or SMART approach. This is thanks to its soothing, moisturising, anti-ageing, restructuring and touch benefits.

Fucogel is ideal for products for sensitive skins because it has been proven in a stinging test to limit the irritation sensation five minutes after the application of lactic acid. It is also incorporated regularly in formulations to increase tolerance.

To substantiate the neuro-soothing mode of action of Fucogel, the active ingredient was the subject of an exclusive study developed in association with Professor Misery (world reference in neurodermatology) according to a ‘keratinocytes/neurons’ cellular. The results demonstrated that Fucogel inhibits the liberation of P, a substance induced by an irritant mediated by the ASICs receptors (acid-sensing ion channel). It is the first active ingredient that acts on this biological pathway. The study was published in the international review Experimental Dermatology and was presented at two dermatology congresses in 2017.

Now available in powder form

Launched at in-cosmetics Global, Fucogel Powder ensures the continuity of Solabia’s environmentally friendly development strategy. It focuses predominantly on water management, by decreasing the amount of water needed for industrial processes and the transported water-related carbon footprint.

Fucogel Powder is preservative-free and easy to use when formulating. It offers new opportunities in makeup formulations for compact and loose powders and can be used in dry shampoos and talc.

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