Take a texture adventure with Cosmetic Ingredients

South Africa’s bath, body and shower category is growing. Shani Vermeulen of Cosmetic Ingredients shares a range of exciting ideas and the suitable ingredients and formulation technologies to help brands innovate.

Stephenson Personal Care’s foaming bath butter packaged in a clear glass jarAmong the range of easy to use melt and pour soaps from Stephenson Personal Care, Crystal OPC is an ideal blend for many applications. Besides using it as a mild, skin-pH soap bar, the base can be whipped into a soft, foaming cream that works well for shaving and a bath or shower whipped cream product. When packaged in coloured layers in a transparent jar, it looks edible.

It is possible to obtain a bouncy mousse texture without the use of silicone elastomers, gellifying the external phase of an emulsion with Aqua Keep 10SH-NFC. This is an aqueous thickener with an interesting rheology. It forms hazy gels structured in bulk, yet the viscosity breaks on the skin, transforming into a water thin product. It also changes the texture of oil in water skin care creams, imparting a non-sticky, matte and powdery film on skin.

Aqua Keep 10SH-NFC (INCI: Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2) is perfect for formulating lemon meringue, marshmallow and snowy textured creams. It can be added directly to cold water and will immediately start to swell and thicken the water.

Cold processable

Stephenson Personal Care recently relaunched its Durosoft range, which includes natural, polyglyceride esters. These water in oil emulsifiers are safe for use in leave on and rinse off body pampering products.

With Durosoft PG4-O (polyglyceryl-4-oleate), you can formulate massage or baby oils that can either be left on the skin or rinsed off easily, converting the finished product into an in-shower or bath time skin conditioning product.

Durosoft PG4-LSG (polyglyceryl-4-laurate) is an oil in water emulsifier that enables sprayable micro-emulsions for light, non-greasy body care. Both emulsifiers can be used in cold manufacturing processes and, when combined, are key ingredients for bath oils, bath melts and anhydrous body scrubs.

Hydrate the skin

The patented Viamerine range from Aldivia consists of versatile, oil soluble vegetable polyglycerides for various applications, from face oils to dry, nourishing after shower body oils.

Viamerine is an excellent and proven anti-ageing and skin hydration agent that remains on the skin, even when used in rinse off products. All the components are glycerides of 18-carbon acids with monounsaturated oleic acid (omega-9), bi-unsaturated linoleic acid (omega-6) and tri-unsaturated linolenic acid (omega-3), given the INCI name Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides.

Linoleic acid indirectly reinforces the skin barrier as it is integrated into ceramide I. Along with alpha linolenic acid and gamma linolenic acid, linoleic acid produces strong anti-inflammatory degradation products in the skin.

A complex technology

Seiwa Kasei’s Amitose R is a complex of arginine and glycerine. Arginine, an amino acid, is a natural moisturising factor (NMF) present in the skin while glycerine is a well-known humectant. The guanidine group of the arginine forms ionic bonds with the proteins in the stratum corneum. These bonds are much stronger than the hydrogen bonds of glycerine alone, resulting in a complex technology that provides long-lasting moisturisation in shower and bath products, even if it’s used in rinse off products.