Vantage presents a proven solution for sensitive skin

BioSignal Lipid 10 MB is a breakthrough active ingredient for consumers with sensitive skin. 

Sensitive skin syndrome has shown high prevalence in recent studies. Cosmetics are among the main factors that trigger sensitive skin, especially in women, due to overuse and sometimes inappropriate use. The presence of potentially irritating substances in formulations also increases the possibility of symptoms. 

According to a Mintel Beauty & Personal Care report on new launches over the last five years – products with a ‘sensitive skin’ claim have been fast-rising across all regions. New launches ‘for sensitive skin’ increased by 90% in the Asia Pacific region between 2015 and 2019. 

One consumer group particularly impacted by chronic skin sensitivity is females experiencing post-menopause. The decreased oestrogen levels can cause skin to become itchy, sensitive, or irritated. People who suffer from eczema/ dermatitis have a damaged skin barrier, making their skin more sensitive to irritants. Diabetes causes decreased blood circulation which in turn changes the skin’s collagen and can increase sensitivity. Lastly stress can cause aggravated neuroinflammatory conditions due to the brain-skin connection. 

BioSignal™ Lipid 10 MB is a patented, proprietary, skin-mimetic technology consisting of phosphatidylglycerol (PG), a unique naturally occurring phospholipid. The technology stimulates the expression of several epidermal proteins known to strengthen the skin barrier, hydrate skin and reduce the inflammatory signalling pathways. In clinical studies, this ingredient not only demonstrates benefits for skin moisturisation, tightening and radiance but was also found to work synergistically with irritating actives to decrease their irritation potential in sensitive skin. 

Breakthrough solution for sensitive skin

BioSignal Lipid 10 MB is a breakthrough active technology for consumers with sensitive skin. Similarly to ceramides and peptides, PG plays a key role in skin health by having both structural and signalling roles in metabolic pathways. 

Bollag Lab Research at Augusta University in Atlanta, US partnered with Vantage to develop a unique PG that is a key signalling molecule in the regulation of keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation via Aquaporin 3. 

Soy PG, which contains a large percentage of polyunsaturated fatty acids, is effective at inhibiting keratinocyte proliferation suggesting its possible use as a treatment to suppress the keratinocyte hyperproliferation observed in psoriasis. 

PG inhibits S100A9 mediated increase of inflammatory mediator (IL1a, IL1b, IL6, TNFa) expression as well as TLR2 pathway-mediated inflammation. 

Soy PG in a contact irritant skin oedema model inhibits skin inflammation in vivo by suppressing TNFa levels in the skin. The exact structure of the PG dictates its effect on skin metabolic pathways. 

Vantage acquired an exclusive patent license from Augusta University for cosmetic applications. 

In vitro substantiation

Tests were conducted to ascertain the expression of skin barrier related genes using BioSignal Lipid 10 MB on a reconstructed model with 48-hour incubation, utilising 

GeneAtlas fluidics Affymetrix system of which there are 36 000 transcripts and variants studies. The analysis was conducted with the DAVID database. It was found that 24 genes were modulated. BioSignal Lipid 10 MB has a complex effect ranging from immunostimulatory to supporting epidermal structure, differentiation and barrier function. 

BioSignal Lipid 10 MB also reduced UV induced IL-8 production by 39%, suggesting the mitigation of anti-inflammatory pathways. It improved Type IV Collagen by 15%, which may improve epidermal cohesion and barrier improvement. 

In skin barrier regeneration, the Vantage technology stimulated the production of moisturising proteins filaggrin, involucrin and aquaporin. Treatment with BioSignal Lipid 10 MB resulted in a thicker, better organised stratum corneum due to increased keratin filaments. 

In the evaluation of the wound closure efficacy with BioSignal Lipid 10 MB by scratch test analysis a human skin fibroblast monolayer culture was damaged and then observed at eight hours and 24 hours. BioSignal Lipid 10 MB was found to contribute to 42% faster skin regeneration and repair compared to the control. 

In vivo substantiation and consumer perception

Moisturisation performance testing was conducted on 10 male and female volunteers over 18 years old. One-time application for an eight-hour study; wash-out prior to test. The results showed that BioSignal Lipid 10 MB provided up to 55% more moisturisation than glycerine on panelists. 

To test its efficacy in reducing skin sensitivity caused by lactic acid, a group 20 male and female volunteers aged between 18 and 65 years with sensitivity to lactic acid were included in the study. Skin was pre-treated with a one-time application on each side of the face of saline and 1% BioSignal Lipid 10 MB or placebo saline. Lactic acid was applied and images were taken immediately after the application and again after six minutes. 

Erythema expert grading and imaging showed that BioSignal Lipid 10 MB reduced skin sensitivity by 25% versus the placebo when exposed to AHAs. 

After only 15 minutes, panelists reported visible and perceivable skin benefits. A total of 100% of panelists reported: “my skin feels instantly more hydrated”; “my skin feels comfortable” and “my skin feels softer”. 

After 28 days, panelists using BioSignal Lipid 10 MB reported even more improvement than the ones using the placebo: 

• 87% said they would buy the BioSignal Lipid 10 MB in a formulated product 

• “my skin appears less red” – improved by 23% versus the placebo 

• “my skin is less prone to irritation”– improved by 33% versus the placebo. 

Addressing skin irritation concerns and signs of ageing, BioSignal Lipid 10 MB is an excellent ingredient to fight against inflammaging. The consumer survey reveals a marked preference for the BioSignal Lipid 10 MB based formula over the placebo. 

BioSignal Lipid 10 MB is a unique phospholipid PG, which is naturally derived, Cosmos Ecocert approved, vegan friendly, RSPO mixed, China compliant, and 100% natural (ISO16128). It improves skin barrier and decreases skin sensitivity. 

The ingredient provides immediate, short-and long-term hydration, improves skin complexion and radiance and improves the appearance of wrinkles and nasolabial folds. BioSignal lipid 10 MB can be used in skin care, scalp care and colour cosmetic products.