Advanced active oils from BergaCare AquaLipids promise easy handling and versatility in numerous applications.
Showcased at in-cosmetics Global 2023, Berg+Schmidt scooped two prizes or its newly launched BergaCare AquaLipids in the 21st European BSB Innovation Awards for cosmetics, natural products and chemical raw materials.
Awarded first place for best functional cosmetics raw material and second place for best natural ingredient, BergaCare AquaLipids are specially processed natural oils that are water dispersible while protecting sensitive oils against oxidation. The advanced lipids are cold processable and easy to handle in a variety of applications, such as water-based serums, fluids, toners and o/w emulsions. BergaCare AquaLipids can also modulate the sensory properties of a finished product.
In contrast to base oils, active oils are characterised by high proportions of vitamins, antioxidants and polyunsaturated fatty acids for their enhanced regenerative and cosmetic effects. The novelty of BergaCare AquaLipids is their ability to incorporate emollients homogeneously into an aqueous system without mixing with other droplets, protecting the valuable oils from oxidation. As the stable lipids are water-dispersible without the need for higher amounts of solubilisers, they are easily processed and can be added to existing formulations for added functional benefits. New concepts can be created quickly and cost-effectively. The active oils of BergaCare AquaLipids are not chemically modified and are of natural origin, enhancing skin compatibility while reducing foaming or tackiness during application.
Innovative applications and formulation ideas
In a sample kit, Berg+Schmidt presents appealing prototypes for serums and gels which target the specific needs of different skin types:
BergaCare AquaLipids Cassis BR contains a combination of blackcurrant and rosehip seed oil, resulting in a high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids, e.g. gamma, alpha-linolenic and linoleic acids. This special composition for oily skin improves the regulation of sebum production and enhances anti-inflammatory effects, while providing a pleasant skin feel and fast absorption.
Pomegranate seed oil and sea buckthorn oil are processed into BergaCare AquaLipids Punica PS for mature skin. Containing the highly beneficial punicic acid and regenerating substances such as phytosterols, polyphenols and flavonoids, the ingredient combination has a powerful antioxidant effect to help counteract skin ageing.
BergaCare AquaLipids Bisabolol AR is designed for sensitive skin as it has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. Key ingredients are an oily extract with a high concentration of alpha-bisabolol, a chamomile-derived molecule and soothing rice bran oil.
The oil of the Kalahari melon with an extremely high linoleic acid content is the base of BergaCare AquaLipids Melon BK. It provides valuable building blocks for the development of the skin barrier and supports epidermal moisturization and hydration. Also included in the formulation is bulbine frutescens leaf juice, which supports elasticity and collagen production, making it ideal for dry, dehydrated skin.
Kristin Köhler, Division Manager Cosmetics, says: “With our technical expertise and the development of our new BergaCare AquaLipids range, we have reinvented active oils to provide a new era of functionality for formulators. Our range promises a wealth of application opportunities for products that are easy to manufacture, resulting in a much shorter time to market.”
BergaCare AquaLipids are available in South Africa from Afrisil Speciality Ingredients.
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