BASF launches new active ingredient for skin prone to atopy

At Cosmet’Agora 2022, BASF is introducing Castaline, a new active ingredient for cosmetics that is clinically proven to help improve the appearance of skin prone to atopy.

Castaline is a 100% natural, organic solution that is derived from French chestnut leaves, and is the most recent addition to BASF’s growing portfolio of ingredients for personal care products that help improve the skin condition related to common epidermal concerns.

Hydrates and soothes: Castaline helps comfort atopic-prone skin

Dermocosmetics reflect rising awareness of how personal care products can positively support skin health. Castaline is BASF’s latest innovation in this field. In vivo trials have proven that it provides a protective effect and thus helps comfort skin prone to atopy. This common skin issue is characterised by a vicious cycle between immunological abnormalities that break down barrier functions, causing itchiness, redness, and often leading to a loss of confidence as well as a microbial dysbiosis due to a prevalence of S. aureus.

In a double-blind, randomized in vivo study conducted under dermatological control, 22 female and male adults with dry skin and a mild-to-moderate EASI score (Eczema Area and Severity Index) applied a base cream emulsion inspired by an established market reference product for very dry skin on one arm or hand, and the same emulsion containing 2% Castaline on the other arm or hand. After 56 days, the product containing 2% Castaline delivered a 27% decrease in Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) compared to 18% when using the base cream alone, the difference being significant versus the reference product. Additionally, the average EASI score decreased by 43%  using Castaline.

These results show that Castaline helps support the skin’s barrier function – with visible and tangible effects: in a self-assessment conducted at the end of the 56-day study, 82% of participants stated that their skin looked more hydrated, and 73% said Castaline increased softness and achieved a soothing effect.

Innovative 3D model mimicking skin prone to moderate atopy

For in vitro testing, researchers at BASF developed an innovative 3D model of inflamed epidermis in the presence of S. aureus, the prevalent bacteria in skin prone to atopic conditions, and in the presence of a specific inflammatory cocktail of cytokines identified in the acute phase of this skin condition. Studies on this model have confirmed that Castaline helps support the skin’s natural immune, microbial, and physical barriers. The in vitro and in vivo results combine to demonstrate that this new ingredient soothes and protects atopic-prone skin.

By-product valorisation of French chestnuts

Castaline is an extract of organic certified leaves of chestnut trees (Castanea sativa), manually harvested in France. Since the leaves are carefully collected from young trees that do not bear fruit, their use in a cosmetic active ingredient can be considered as valorisation of an agricultural by-product. Their harvest has no impact on the preservation of the species and creates a new value stream in chestnut production. As a result, Castaline is suitable for cosmetics that are marketed as sustainable and natural. With chestnut leaves being known from literature for their health properties in medicinal and Ayurveda uses, Castaline is the perfect ingredient to provide consumers with a mild and complementary solution for very dry or atopic- prone skin.

An expanding portfolio of dermocosmetic natural ingredients with proven efficacy

The new, active ingredient Castaline is a perfect fit for BASF’s portfolio of dermocosmetic and natural ingredients that offer skin challenge solutions. This includes Bix’Activ for oily skin, Hydrasensyl Glucan Green for dehydrated skin, Inolixir for sensitive skin, Nephoria and PeptAlde 4.0 for aged skin, and Relipidium for dry skin.

Together, these effective, high-quality ingredients are empowering cosmetics manufacturers to meet rising demand for clinically proven dermocosmetic products that support healthier and more comfortable skin. For consumers, this opens up possibilities to relieve discomfort – and boost skin confidence.