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Formulate hybrid foundations with hydrophilic pigments


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3 min read 3 min

Seppic is addressing market demands for hybrid makeup by developing foundations with hydrophilic pigments. These products are inspired by skin care concepts and offer great sensorial benefits.

Nowadays, the makeup market is undergoing a revolution with consumer demand for enhanced ‘care’ benefits and increased naturalness. Skin care concepts continue to influence makeup product development in terms of new textures and care claims. To create makeup with sensorial textures which is inspired by skin care – think of an o/w foundation cream gel – formulators need hydrophilic coated pigments to optimise foundation coverage and achieve good makeup performance.

To develop on-trend products, Seppic put its portfolio of polymers and emulsifiers to the test to obtain compatibility data with hydrophilic pigments in powder form and dispersed liquid form. The end result will empower formulators to select suitable products and to develop pleasant textures with this kind of pigment.

To inspire formulators, Seppic has designed makeup formulations and tested some chassis formulas for their no-transfer and coverage properties.

Portfolio of compatible polymers

From polymers to emulsifiers, many Seppic ingredients are compatible with the hydrophilic pigments (in powder form with various coatings or liquid dispersions) tested in a cream-gel and an emulsion. Among the polymers tested:

  • Sepimax Zen (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) is the best performing synthetic polymer
  • Solagum AX (Acacia Senegal Gum and Xanthan Gum) is the best performing natural polymer.

In addition to Sepimax Zen and SolagumAX, there are other polymers that give good performance results. These include Sepinov EMT 10 (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer), Sepiplus S (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer and Polyisobutene and PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Cononut Ether), Sepiplus 400 (Polyacrylate-13 and Polyisobutene and Polysorbate 20) and Simulgel NS (Hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium AcryloyldimethylTaurate Copolymer and Squalane and Polysorbate 60).

These Seppic polymers, available throughout Southern Africa from CJP Chemicals, are ideal for the formulation of o/w foundations in emulsion form. Formulators can also play with the percentage of polymers and emulsifiers to achieve different levels of viscosity.

Efficacy tested and verified

No-transfer and high coverage efficacy are two principal requirements of consumers when it comes to makeup. To meet these needs, Seppic has done various tests on an emulsion chassis. The results showed its simple formulas are non-transfer, like a water-in-silicone market benchmark and obtained better results than a water-based foundation benchmark.

To discover the beauty of a hybrid foundation, Seppic encourages formulators to try its natural tinted foundation (formula EU07556), which is an o/w emulsion with 15% of hydrophilic pigments. As a balancing natural emulsion, it gives a high coverage without transfer to unify skin complexion. Please contact CJP Chemicals for the guideline formulation EU07556.

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