Re-examine the value of proactive sunscreen testing

SGS, a leading testing, inspection and certification company, is urging manufacturers of sunscreen products to re-examine the benefits of taking a proactive approach to sunscreen testing.

South Africans are at a higher risk of skin cancer.¹ The primary cause of this cancer is exposure to harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun. In addition, sun exposure is also responsible for many of the visible sign of ageing – wrinkles, sunspots, etc.

Sunscreens offer an effective response to the harmful effects of exposure to UV radiation. However, for them to be effective, they must be safe, non-ecotoxic, effective and appealing to the consumer.

Tests to consider

As well as testing for texture, scent and ease of application, manufacturers should consider multiple in vivo tests to ensure safety and adequate protection from the sun, including:

• Phototoxicity testing to assess whether the product causes skin irritation when exposed to sunlight – crucial for avoiding adverse skin reactions.
• Photoallergy testing to examine the potential for allergic reactions triggered by sunlight exposure, ensuring the product is not a sensitiser.
• Non-comedogenicity testing to determine whether the sunscreen will clog pores, which is essential for people who are prone to acne and other skin conditions.
• Ocular testing to evaluate a product’s safety if it comes into contact with the eyes, ensuring it does not cause irritation or harm.

Rigorous testing is also necessary to measure the sun protection factor (SPF), which indicates the level of protection against UVB rays, and to determine the level of UVA protection. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and Australian/New Zealand Standard (AS/NZS) have established tests to determine SPF, covering both dry and wet conditions.

In vivo testing for UVA is used to assess aspects such as photostability and ecotoxicity, and is conducted through persistent pigment darkening following regulatory guidelines set by ISO, specifically outlined in ISO 24442:2022.

Ensuring safety, efficacy and market acceptability

SGS has joined an international consortium for alternative testing methodologies, to assess and validate innovative tests that do not rely on visible biological reactions. This includes hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS), detailed in draft ISO 23698, which is an effective alternative to traditional testing for SPF, UVA-PF and critical wavelength protection.

Rigorous testing to international standards ensures products meet market demands, giving consumers the information they need to make informed decisions regarding skin protection and manufacturers the insights they need to make trusted claims.

SGS is a world leader in the testing of sunscreen products. It offers comprehensive testing solutions for sunscreen safety, efficacy, ecotoxicity and cosmetic appeal through a global, state-of-the-art laboratory network. Click here for more information.

Reference:

1. https://cansa.org.za/south-africans-at-higher-risk-of-skin-cancer/