Defy gravity to restore the skin’s matrix 

In ageing, certain factors are beyond our control – or are they? It’s been impossible to fight the constant influence of gravity on the resistance of our tissues. Yet this is changing with J-Dermist, an anti-gravity active ingredient from Codif. 

For some time, we have been seeing the emergence of the well-ageing concept. It’s linked to better health and to living a more fulfilling life. Ageing well starts with accepting the passage of time and the effects it can have on our mental and physical well-being while controlling certain factors that make us feel older.

Newton’s answers to the question of gravity came from an apple falling to the ground from the top of an apple tree. Codif’s solution to gravity originates from the tall upright stalks of Isodon japonicus, a plant also known as Enmei-so which means ‘the plant that prolongs life’ in Japanese.

Throughout the development of J-Dermist, science has been a great ally, right down to the way in which the ingredient’s efficacy is measured using X-Polar technology. The analysis of the structural quality of the ECM was evaluated using Kamax technologies, which provide an innovative approach to the structure of collagen fibres. J-Dermist was awarded 2^nd prize at the 2023 BSB Innovation Awards in the Most Innovative Raw Material category.

Improvement in collagen density

In a study human skin explants (49-year-old female donor) were treated with topical applications of J-Dermist 1% or 2% for seven days and analysed using Kamax technology. Used at 1%, J-Dermist significantly improved the integrity of the collagen organisation by 27% in the papillary dermis and 60% in the reticular dermis. This directly translates into better quality collagen fibres, which can be interpreted as a rejuvenation of collagen integrity. Used at 2%, J-Dermist significantly improves the collagen density by 138% in the papillary dermis and 156% in the reticular dermis.

The densifying action of J-Dermist promotes an increase in skin firmness and a decrease in wrinkles. After 28 days of treatment with J-Dermist, an improvement in the nasolabial winkles was observed, with a significant decrease in the rugosity parameters Ra, Rz and Rt, from 8% to 10% (figure 1). No significant variation was observed with the placebo.

Reduce gravity’s impact on sagging skin

The gravity constraint on nasolabial wrinkles can be visualised and measured by comparing the volume of nasolabial fold in a lying position (minimum gravity constraint) and in a seated position (maximum gravity constraint). The difference in volume of the nasolabial fold between both positions represents the effect of gravity on tissue relaxation and thus on the depth of wrinkle.

After 28 days of treatment with J-Dermist, Codif measured the highest decrease in the gravity constraint on the nasolabial furrow amplitude compared to the placebo, at 13% and 3% respectively. If we consider the subjects (n=15) most impacted by gravity constraint, a significant decrease of 28% was measured (figure 2).

Bio-inspired by the ability of Isodon japonicus to stand upright despite the effect of gravity, J-Dermist restores the structural properties of the skin to recover its ability to retract under gravity constraint. Available in South Africa from Vantage, J-Dermist significantly improves deep wrinkles while counterbalancing the effect of gravity on the accentuation of the signs of ageing. This mechanism of action could also benefit to other areas of the face like upper eyelids and facial contours.