Pore minimising innovation

Most consumers want refined skin with small, barely visible pores. However, this can be difficult, if not impossible to achieve. More than 50% of consumers report pore size as being a major concern. Whilst genetics and gender do play a role, ethnic skin types tend to experience greater challenges with enlarged pores, with sun damage and ageing also being factors.

Pores are small openings around the hair follicle and sweat glands – everyone has them. They serve two purposes: secreting oil and releasing sweat. Both are important and vital functions for the skin and general health. Sweating helps maintain an appropriate body temperature, while oil or sebum keeps the skin moist and provides a protective barrier.

Refined skin with small pores is highly desirable, but it is not advisable to shrink pores too much as this may affect the overall health of the skin.

Enlarged pores can also be a problem as they often become blocked with dirt, excess oil and makeup. Blocked pores are the starting point of blemishes, pimples and acne. Whilst enlarged pores are not specific to any age or ethnic group, research by dermatologists has shown that certain ethnic groups are more prone to having larger pores, including ethnic or African groups as well as those with Indian ancestry.

Pores often appear larger with age and tend to be more common in women than in men. Some data even points to a fluctuation in pore size during the menstrual cycle, with pores being the largest during ovulation.

The size of pores is also affected by sun damage, increased sebum production and the ageing process.

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Common treatment options

Demands to either prevent or shrink large pores has always presented chemical companies, formulators and skin care professionals with challenges. Consumers tend to avoid skin creams that induce blackheads and whiteheads as a form of treatment. They also opt for weight loss as it is reported to reduce sebum production, along with chemical peels other topical treatments like nicotinamide, L-carnitine, retinoids and plant-derived copper chlorophyllin complexes.

A market ready for innovation

In its research and development efforts to find solutions that address enlarged pores, JAKA Biotech explored the root causes of this skin care concern and found that there is a significant correlation between enlarged pores and the size of the sebaceous glands. By examining secrets deep in the pores, chemists at JAKA found that where the sebaceous gland is of normal size, secretions are manageable and exit pores with little or no problem. Where sebaceous glands are enlarged and secrete excessive amounts of sebum, pores are overwhelmed, become stretched and therefore enlarged.

After screening more than 50 plants, JAKA selected the Lotus corniculatus plant, which is rich in flavonoids and alkaloids. This is the first time a natural active raw material has been extracted from this plant. Smopore LC (INCI: Propanediol, Water, Lotus corniculatus Seed Extract), targets sebaceous gland cells and effectively shrinks enlarged pores caused by vigorous sebum secretion.

The active ingredient works to effectively reduce lipid synthesis and promote the fusion of sebaceous gland cells. Its mechanism of action helps with oil control and pore minimising through the immediate reduction of sebum secretion and long-term regulation of sebaceous gland activity.

Tested and proven effective

Clinical tests conducted on 23 people showed that 5% Smopore LC immediately regulated and reduced sebum secretion as well as reducing the number of enlarged pores and therefore refining the skin. There was also evidence of a long-term impact on sebum secretion which helps to mattify the skin.

In vitro tests showed that Smopore LC inhibited cell differentiation and reduced lipid synthesis.

Smopore LC is ideal for use in oil control ad pore astringent products and is suitable for lotions, gels, essences (serums), creams etc.

JAKA Biotech is represented in Southern Africa by Botanichem.